Lanes Jewellery Information

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Diamonds at Lanes

Interesting facts about diamonds

diamond-grading

Over the years I have learned to appreciate beautiful things. Diamonds and fine jewellery are my passion'- Michael Lane

Lanes are diamond specialists and have been for 20 years. We have an established reputation, with high quality sources from London, Antwerp and around the world are able to provide you with the very best quality and value. We have a large selection of Diamond rings and Diamond Jewellery, but our website only shows a few examples from our comprehensive stock.

  • Diamonds were formed between 3.3 billion and 900 million years ago, yet man did not discover them until after 2,500 BC.
  • The word diamond came from the ancient Greek word 'adamas', meaning unconquerable.
  • Diamond is the hardest substance known to man (140 times harder than ruby/sapphire and 180 times harder than emerald).
  • Over 250 tons of ore must be mined in order to produce a one carat polished diamond.
  • Every diamond is unique - no two are the same.
  • The 4Cs: Cut, Colour, Clarity and Carat Weight combine to determine the value of a diamond.
  • The largest diamond ever found, the Cullinan, weighed 3,106 carats. The two largest polished diamonds cut from the Cullinan can be seen today in The Crown Jewels in The Tower of London.
  • The famous slogan 'a diamond is forever' was created over 50 years ago to capture the magic, mystery and beauty of the world's most precious gem.
  • The first diamond engagement ring first made an appearance in 1477, when it was slipped on to the finger of Mary of Burgundy by her fiance, Archduke Maximilian of Austria.

Diamonds and the four C’s

Understanding diamonds requires knowledge of the four C’s: cut, colour, clarity and carat weight. It is the interplay of these various characteristics that will determine a stone’s beauty and value.

Colour

Colour is personal: some people like a diamond with an ice-cold whiteness (colourless or near-colourless), while others prefer the golden glow of a warmer colour. Diamonds with no colour like D, E, F, are very rare and are more expensive than near-colourless (G, H, I, J) diamonds.

Diamonds with a faint tinge of color (K, L, M, N, O) have a slightly warm colour and are more affordable. For those who want a larger diamond within a certain budget, selecting diamonds with a lower colour grade may be the best option.

GIA Colour Scale:

  • D, E, F: colorless
  • G, H, I, J: near colorless
  • K, L, M: faint yellow or faint brown
  • N, O, P, Q, R: very light yellow or very light brown
  • S through Z: light yellow or light brown

Most diamonds appear colorless but actually have slight tones of yellow or brown. The closer the stone comes to colourless, the more valuable it is. Diamonds are graded on a colour scale ranging from D (colourless) to Z (heavily tinted.) Only a highly skilled professional will detect any color in E or F stones, and the colour in diamonds rated up to J will be virtually invisible when set in a ring or other jewellery.

Colour is only one of the four C's so even when a stone has a visible tint, such as K or lower, it can still be very lovely if it has good clarity and cut. How the diamond is set can make a difference, too; you might not want to put a truly colourless diamond in a yellow gold setting since the yellow colour will reflect in the stone. On the other hand, a slightly yellow stone will appear whiter in a yellow gold setting.

Diamonds also come in a wide variety of other colours, including red, blue, green and a bright yellow known as "canary." These are graded as Z+ and are known as "fancy" diamonds. Ones with good colour are very rare and can sell for much more per carat than white diamonds.

Clarity

Clarity refers to how free a diamond is from nature's "birthmarks," or tiny,

Diamonds are assigned clarity grades based on what can be detected with ten-power magnification. Most internal features (inclusions) and external features (blemishes) in the diamond have little or no effect on brilliance and fire.

So if small clarity characteristics don't affect a diamond's beauty, why are diamonds with higher clarity grade so expensive? It's simply because diamonds with relatively few clarity characteristics are very rare. Fortunately, diamonds of all clarity grades and prices, including those with eye-visible inclusions, can look beautiful depending on how well they're cut and other factors. The best advice is to look at several diamonds of different clarity grades and let your eye be the guide!

Carat

Diamond weight is stated in carats, a measurement derived from the more romantic, (but less accurate) original scale of comparison using the seeds of the carob tree which were very uniform and consistent in weight. Precision balances are now used and a carat has been standardized as equivalent to one fifth of a gram. 

One carat is divided into 100 points, so for example, a diamond weighing half a carat can also be described as weighing 50 points or 0.50 carats.

Diamonds over 1 carat are particularly rare.  Less than 5% of gem quality diamonds achieve this magic weight once they are cut and polished, making them more desirable and, inevitably, more expensive.

All other things being equal, the greater the carat weight, the rarer the diamond and the more expensive it is. 

Although many people equate "bigger" with "better," diamonds of all carat weight have the potential to be lively, exciting, and beautiful. The most important thing is to buy the one that's right for you.

Cut

It is the cut that makes a diamond sparkle! A well-cut diamond will reflect light to its optimum, creating brilliance and fire. Brilliance refers to the return of light to the eye through the diamond and the prism effect, the separation of white light into a rainbow of colours, is traditionally called the Fire of the stone.
Cut is not shape, ie, pear, round, oval. Cut refers to the quality of the proportioning, polish, and symmetry.

  • Diameter: The width of the diamond as measured through the girdle.
  • Table: The flat top and largest facet of a gemstone.
  • Crown: The top portion of a diamond extending from the girdle to the table.
  • Girdle: The narrow band around the widest part of a diamond.
  • Pavilion: The bottom portion of a diamond, extending from the girdle to the point of the stone.
  • Culet: The facet at the tip of a gemstone.
  • Depth: The height of a gemstone measured from the culet to the table.

Diamond Shapes

round diamond shape

Round Brilliant - The brilliant round diamond shape has set the standard for all other diamond shapes and are admired for their sparkle. Its 58-facet cut.

oval diamond shape

Oval - Not as popular for solitaires, but very popular for three stone anniversary rings, with two matching diamonds on the sides.

princess diamond shape

Princess - A square cut diamond that has refractive properties almost near round brilliant. The princess is the preferred square cut shape over radiant.

emerald diamond shape

Emerald - A more traditional shape, the emerald is not as popular as it used as it once was, but has an old world elegance to it.

radiant diamond shape

Radiant - Popular before the princess shape was around, the radiant has more facets than a princess, but has the corners trimmed like the emerald shape. This shape is not widely popular.

heart diamond shape

Heart - Hard to find due to low demand, but some people prefer a heart shape diamond for sentimental purposes.

marquise diamond shape

Marquise - Like the emerald, the marquise is a traditional shape. This is probably the fourth most popular shape behind the round, princess and oval.

pear diamond shape

Pear - Mostly used in pendants, the pear shape diamond is shaped in a tear drop shape and has fairly good proportions to refract light well.

What is the 5th C?

At Lanes we're not afraid to talk to you about this.... the Cost!

Obviously, the amount you decide to spend on a diamond ring is a personal matter, but you will no doubt have heard that 1-3 months' salary is about the norm. We're not quite sure where this originally came from (it certainly wasn't us!) but at Lanes we suggest that you feel free to spend whatever you feel comfortable with and more importantly, can realistically afford!

Lanes policy on 'conflict' diamonds

Lanes diamonds are purchased from legitimate sources not involved in funding conflict and in compliance with United Nations resolutions. To the best of our knowledge all Lanes diamonds are conflict free, based on our personal knowledge and/or written guarantees provided by all suppliers of our diamonds.

For Diamonds mined prior to the formal operation of the Kimberley Process on 1st January 2003, our suppliers warrant they have not knowingly supplied us with Conflict Diamonds and have taken reasonable precautionary measures to ensure this.

The Kimberley Process is an international certification scheme that regulates the trade in rough diamonds. Its aim is to prevent the trade in conflict diamonds, while helping to protect the legitimate trade in rough diamonds. A Kimberley Process certificate, guaranteeing diamonds as conflict-free, accompanies all official shipments of rough diamonds to and from participating countries.
To support this, the international diamond industry agreed to a voluntary system of warranties to ensure diamonds continued to be tracked right up to the point of sale. All invoices for the sale of rough diamonds should now include a written guarantee that states they are conflict-free.

Pearl Information

Cultured Pearls

These are formed the same way as natural pearls. The only difference, is the irritant introduced by man (the nucleus is inserted into the oyster by man) and the oysters are raised in a controlled environment, on farms. Nowadays, the great majority of fine quality pearls sold, are cultured pearls.

Freshwater Pearls

Freshwater cultured pearls are grown in freshwater rivers and lakes. Although the traditional source of pearls has been saltwater oysters, mussels which live in freshwater lakes and rivers are also capable of producing pearls. These pearls are generally less expensive when compared to their saltwater counter parts. Freshwater mussels are nucleated using a piece of mantle tissue only. The pearl develops around the mantle tissue, which can deteriorate in time, leaving a pearl that is composed almost entirely of nacre.

Freshwater pearls tend to have less surface lustre when compared to saltwater varieties, and are characterized by the reflection of rainbow colours in the lustre. Many freshwater pearls are oblong shaped, and known as "rice pearls". They are generally less expensive than saltwater pearls.

Natural Pearls

Natural pearls, just as the name implies, were formed when irritant (such as a grain of sand, a piece of coral or seashell) entered the oyster by accident.

This is a pretty rare occurrence and doesn't result in many jewellery quality pearls being available. It would be a rare thing to come across a natural pearl on the market today. It is normally only possible to tell the difference between a natural or cultured pearl by using x-ray techniques.

Simulated Pearls

Simulated, imitation and "faux" pearls are man-made from a variety of products. Simulated pearls are made from the finest materials for a fine, Cultured Pearl look.

Proper care of pearls is not difficult if you remember that they are organic and produced by a living thing. Pearls are soft and delicate, but when cared for with common sense, they will maintain their lustre. It is important that pearls should not come ito avoid contact with cosmetics, hairspray, perfume, chlorinated water, or other harsh chemicals. To keep them clean, let them be the last item put on when dressing, and the first item taken off at the end of an evening. The best way to maintain their lustre is to wear the pearls often, and wipe them down with a soft cloth afterwards, pearls absorb the oils from skin, which helps keep them moist. Pearls should be stored separately from other jewellery to prevent nicks or chipping. Periodically, pearl strands should be restrung since the thread used to tie the pearls together breaks down over time.

Wedding Anniversaries

The following list of anniversary numbers and materials is far too often just associated with a wedding anniversary. However, they apply equally to any anniversary, from a person’s birthday to the age of a company. Thus ruby jewellery is now often given to a woman on her 40th birthday and some firms give their employees a special gift after 25 years of service.

Only some of the materials listed have obvious connections with a jeweller’s shop, but with imagination, some suitable gifts could be found in almost any category (some examples are given).

1. Paper Perhaps a gift voucher, or a piece of jewellery that comes with a paper guarantee or certificate, such as a watch or a nice diamond?

2. Cotton We're working on this one!

3. Leather A leather covered hip-flask.

4. Fruit A pendant or charm in a fruit shape.

5. Wood A wood and silver jewellery box or wine coasters.

6. Confectionery Our silver Rolo keepsake or a silver box full of sweeties?

7. Copper We're working on this one!

8. Bronze We're working on this one!

9. Pottery We're working on this one!

10. Tin/Pewter A pewter hip flask or tankard?

11. Steel A stainless-steel watch? Lanes have a large selection.

12. Silk Don’t forget that a fine diamond ring could easily be put in a silk lined ring case. Or perhaps pin a lovely gold brooch to a silk blouse as a suprise present?

13. Coral/Jade Rings or earrings set with either, or perhaps beads.

14. Ivory Ivory was the traditional gift, but its trade is now restricted by international treaty. A watch with an ivory coloured dial would be an alternative. Or an elephant charm – with tusks!

15. Crystal We're working on this one!

20. China We're working on this one too!

25. Silver Jewellery, watches, picture frames, ornaments are just a few possibilities.

30. Pearl Earrings or the English lady’s favourite, a row of pearls?

35. Platinum The most precious of precious metals, Lanes stock a wide range of platinum jewellery.

40. Ruby Tradition has it that is a ruby ring but how about a pendant or a vice pair of ruby earrings?

45. Sapphire It doesn’t have to be blue, sapphire comes in all shades except red. Pink sapphires are a good alternative.

50. Gold Lanes have a huge choice of gold jewellery - earrings, brooches, pendants, rings, necklets and watches to name but a few.

55. Emerald Don’t like emeralds? What about an emerald cut gemstone, that way you can get a special diamond five years early!

60. Diamond Lanes carry a huge choice, if you want a watch instead there are several that are diamond set.

There are no official 65th or 70th anniversary gifts, but Lanes will sometimes receive enquiries for such things. More diamonds have been suggested!

Birthstones

Month
Colour Gemstone Alternative Meanings of stones
January
Dark Red Garnet   Faith, Eternity, Truth
February
Purple Amethyst   Luck, Wittiness, Health
March
Pale Blue Aquamarine Bloodstone Happiness, Understanding
April
White Diamond Rock Crystal Eternity, Courage, Health
May
Green Emerald Chrysophrase Fidelity, Goodness, Love
June
Cream Pearl Moonstone Peace, Nobility, Beauty
July
Red Ruby Cornelian Love, Enthusiasm, Strength
August
Pale Green Peridot Sardonyx Success, Peace, Love
September
Deep Blue Sapphire Lapis Lazuli Serenity, Truth
October
Variegated Opal   Purity, Hope, Health
November
Yellow Topaz Citrine Wisdom, Courage, Sincerity
December
Sky Blue Tanzanite Turquoise Love, Happiness, Luck

Ring Size Conversion Chart

UK US Japan Europe   Diameter Circumference
  (mm) (mm)
4 7 6   14.8 46.5
8 8   15.2 48
5 9 9   15.6 49
L 10 10   16 50.5
M 6 12 12   16.4 52
N 13 13   16.8 53
O 7 14 14   17.3 54.5
P 15 15   17.7 55.5
Q 8 16 17   18.1 57
17 18   18.5 58
9 18 19   18.9 59.5
20 21   19.3 61
10 21 22   19.7 62
10½ 22 23   20.1 63.5
11 24 24   20.6 64.5
11½ 25 26   21 66
Y 12 26 27   21.4 67.5
Z 12½ 27 28   21.8 68.5
Z+1 13 28 30   22.2 70
Z+2 13½ 29 31   22.6 71
Z+3 14 31 32   23 72.5
Z+4 14½ 32 34   23.4 74
Z+5 15 33 35   23.9 75

Rolex Serial Numbers and Production Dates

YEAR SERIAL   YEAR SERIAL   YEAR SERIAL
1925 25000   1956 400000   1987 9766000
1926 28000   1957 600000   1987 1/2 R000000
1927 30430   1958 800000   1988 R999999
1928 32960   1959 1100000   1989 L000001
1929 35390   1960 1402000   1990 1/2 E000001
1930 37820   1961 1480000   1991 3/4 X000001
1931 40250   1962 1558000   1991 3/4 N000001
1932 42680   1963 1636000   1992 1/4 C000001
1934 45000   1964 1714000   1993 3/4 S000001
1935 63000   1965 1792000   1995 W000001
1936 81000   1966 1871000   1996 T000001
1937 99000   1967 2163900   1997 3/4 U000001
1938 117000   1968 2426800   1998 1/2 A000001
1939 135000   1969 2689700   2000 1/2 P000001
1940 164600   1970 2952600   2001 1/2 K000001
1941 194200   1971 3215500   2003 Y000001
1942 223800   1972 3478400   2004 F000001
1943 253400   1973 3741300   2005 1/2 D000001
1944 283000   1974 4004200   2006 1/2 Z000001
1945 348100   1975 4267100   2007 3/4 M000001
1946 413200   1976 4538000      
1947 478300   1977 5008000      
1948 543400   1978 5482000      
1949 608500   1979 5958000      
1950 673600   1980 6434000      
1951 738700   1981 6910000      
1952 803800   1982 7386000      
1953 950000   1983 7862000      
1954 999999   1984 8338000      
1955 200000   1985 8814000      
1956 400000   1986 9290000      
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Jon